This study was carried out to analyze experimentally on the ancient textiles collected in the total numbers of 135 pieces of woven fabrics attached to the 182 segments of remains found in the 33 old tombs of Kaya. The ancient fabrics were grouped in the chronological orders as follows ; The 2 pieces of late the second century, the 4 pieces of the early fourth century, 25 pieces of the early fifth century, the 134 pieces of the late fifth century, and the 17 pieces of the early sixth century. Most of the fabrics investigated were imprinted on the surfaces of metallic remains and the high quality of fabrics such as Brocade(錦), Leno(紗), and Two-crossing-two style of Leno(羅) were attached to the precious metal or iron remains. The historical textiles investigated can be grouped with design in woven structure as follows ; 141 pieces of plain weave, the 2 pieces of plain weave derivative, 4 pieces of twill weave, 2 pieces of compound weave, and the six pieces of two-crossing-two style of leno. Among the thirty pieces of hemp and the twelve pieces of ramie disclosed in the historical textiles, the S-twist in the yarn was showed in all of these fabrics except the Z-twist of 3 pieces. And also the S-twist was seen in the eighty-two pieces of silk fabrics among these except only three pieces showing the Z-twist. It may be considered that the S-twist was favored at that time. Among the total 48 pieces of silk, there is one fabric with the S-twist, the remaining pieces are made of untwisted filaments. In some of the thirty five pieces of silk fabrics, it was identified that the untwisted filaments on the polished cross sections and the refining of silk filaments was ranged from 0.046 to 0.311 millimeters for the warp and the filling from 0.061 to 0.485 millimeters. The fabric counts were ranged from 9.6 to 34.7 per centimeters for warp direction and filling direction from 7.8 to 21.8 per centimeters in the case of hemp and ramie fabrics. The silk fabric counts with plain weaves were ranged from 27.7 to 148.2 per centimeters for warp direction and filling direction from 9.9 to 128.91 per centimeters. It is confirmed that the fabric counts with the most compactness was the case of the fabrics attached to the remains from the Okjeon old tombs of Kaya (Remain No.44-138a) in the early sixth century, which the compactness was 148.2×129.1/cm^㎠ and was identified the one of fabric counts with the highest density as the Korean historical textiles reported. There has been a finding of leno in the late fifth century Shilla tomb, indicating the use of leno in Korea during that time. This research was done using analytic techniques such as the electron microscope and the image analyzer to carry out a more precise examination of the weaving technique and cross section of imprinted fabrics at present time, when Korean textile remains are scarce due to the qualities of fiber, the natural conditions and the frequent disturbances of war. It is to my belief that on account of the preciseness, this research will contribute to the future ancient textile study.

목차
Abstract = i
목차 = iii
표목차 = v
그림목차 = vii
1장. 서론 = 1
1절. 연구목적 = 1
2절. 연구내용 및 범위 = 6
2장. 이론적 배경 = 8
1절. 가야 각국의 역사와 고분군 = 8
1. 금관가야 = 10
2. 대가야 = 11
3. 아라가야 = 12
4. 소가야 = 13
5. 다라국 = 14
2절. 우리나라의 고대직물 = 15
1. 국가별 분류 = 16
2. 직물 명칭별 분류 = 34
3장. 연구방법 및 절차 = 44
1절. 조사대상 = 44
2절. 조사방법 = 46
4장. 수착직물에 관한 분석 및 고찰 = 50
1절. 고분별 특성 = 50
1. 양동리·복천동 고분군 = 50
2. 지산동 고분군 = 56
3. 도항리 고분군 = 62
4. 옥산리 고분군 = 68
5. 옥전 고분군 = 69
2절. 수착직물의 조직별 특성 = 122
1. 평직 = 122
1) 마직물 = 122
2) 견직물 = 126
2. 능직 = 130
3. 라직 = 131
4. 중조직 = 137
5장. 결론 = 140
참고문헌 = 144
감사의 글 = 153

경상대학교 도서관 (248003)

• 가야고분
• 수착직물